The Cotton Chain
Linking sustainable agriculture and fair trade

In collaboration with Pesticides Action Network (PAN) partners, the Pesticides Trust [now PAN UK] cotton project evolved from evidence collected over a period of several years on the adverse health and environmental effects of pesticides use. It became clear that, as the major non-food crop and the one on which insecticides are most used worldwide (with a value of about US$1.85 billion), cotton was a major source of pesticide problems, especially in developing countries. In addition to the big producers (US, China, India, Pakistan and former USSR), which together account for nearly 80% of global production, cotton is grown in over 50 developing countries, mainly in Africa and Latin America, where it is often a very important source of income both at national and household level. In Benin and Paraguay, for example, cotton represents 35% of export earnings. In addition to the negative health and environmental effects of pesticides use, the development of insect pest resistance arising from the excessive and injudicious use of pesticides is a serious threat to production in many countries. Production in 1995 is projected at a lower level than usual due to the effects of diseases in India and Pakistan and insect pests in China which cannot be controlled.
    At the practical level, the cotton project aims to contribute to the development of sustainable agriculture in the South by addressing the problems faced by small farmers dependent on cotton for cash. The objective is to improve both livelihoods and food security by supporting efforts to develop organic cotton production as an integral part of agro-ecological farming systems. Alternative systems can be both economically and environmentally more viable for small farmers.
    Additional elements in the project include continuing research and analysis of world  production and trade in cotton, fostering links between producers in the South and marketing opportunities in the North, and information dissemination. Practical experience, research and analysis will be used to advocate support for sustainable agriculture in the policies of governments and the major development agencies.
    Progress has been made in several project areas. The consultation with PAN partners which started with the preparation of country case studies has been consolidated and further developed, and the reports will be included in a Cotton Reader (see resources, page 23). Feasibility work for a pilot conversion project in Senegal was completed, a first workshop with farmers organised, and preparations made for the first group of farmers to participate in the organic conversion process (see page 16). Active linkages with other organisations and individuals, especially in organic conversion, have been developed. Marketing opportunities have been consolidated and possibilities for expanding the practical work into other  parts of Africa are being  investigated.  Research into international trading mechanisms related to cotton and textiles has been initiated. These aspects of the project are reflected in this special issue of Pesticides News on cotton, together with some basic statistics about global cotton production and a selected list of resources.  The cotton project is still in its early  stages and is seen as 'work in progress': comments and further contributions are  welcomed.

[This article first appeared in Pesticides News No. 28, June 1995, page  9]

Resources

• A Cotton Reader, articles and materials collected by the Pesticides Trust [now PAN UK], including case studies of cotton production and pesticide problems in Senegal, Sudan, Paraguay and Nicaragua.  Available shortly, £10.

• The Cotton Connection Conference, November 1994, Proceedings (in English), PAN-Germany, Hamburg, 100pp. Available August 1995.

• Weber, Carina and Dagmar Parusel,  Zum Beispiel Baumwolle.  Lamuv Taschenbuch Sud-Nord. Dm 9.80, 1995.

• Knirsch, Jurgen, Pestizideinsatz bei der Primarproduktion von Naturfasern: Baumwolle, Leinen (Flachs), (Schaf-) Wolle und Seide.  PAN Germany. Hamburg, 1993, 86pp.

• Graham Matthews (Ed), Insect Pests of Cotton, CAB International, Wallingford, Oxon. OX10 8DE, UK. 592pp.

• Harry de Vries with contributions from Henk Kox, 'An International Commodity-Related Environmental Agreement for Cotton: An Appraisal', Free University, Amsterdam The Netherlands, 1995.

• Agriculture Paysannes et Modernisation (APM) Afrique, Séminaire Coton:  Tome I, Information et formation des responsables du SYCOV et des délégués des pays membres du Réseau APM, 85pp;  Tome II, Contribution des délégations étrangères, 75pp. Ségou, Mali, reports January 1995.

• Hamdy M. Eisa, et al., Cotton Production Prospects for the Decade to 2005, A Global Overview, World Bank Technical paper No. 231, Washington, US, 1994, 112pp.

• Coleman, J.R. and M.E. Thigpen, 'Should Sub-Saharan Africa expand cotton exports?'  Policy Research Working Papers, International Trade, World Bank, Washington DC, US, May 1993.

• Ton, Peter and Simplice Vodouhe, 'Des Opportunites d'Etablir des Liens Commerciaux en Coton Durable entre le Benin et les Pays-Bas'.  Department of Human Geography, University of Amsterdam, 1018 VZ, Amsterdam, 1994.

• US Beltwide Cotton Conferences, reports from National Organic Cotton Association (see contacts).

Contacts

• AK Cotton Connection, is a coalition of consumer, environment, development and research groups interested in sustainable cotton  and textile production, c/o PAN Germany, Nernstweg 32, D-22765 Hamburg, Germany. Tel +49 40 393978; Fax +49 40 390 7520.

• CIRAD Cotton Programme, conducts cotton research for developing countries, particularly francophone countries of West Africa. 2196 Boulevard de la Lironde, Montferrier-sur-Lez, BP 5035, 34032 Montpellier, Cedex 1, France, Fax +33 67 61 58 71.

• Clean Clothes Campaign, Kinkerstraat 48 huis, 1053 Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Tel +31 20 612 6172, Fax +31 20 616 8967.

• Cotton Outlook publishes information on the cotton situation worldwide. Its Cotlook A Index and Cotlook B Index for medium and coarse count cottons respectively, present average price quotations and are the internationally accepted cotton price measurements. Outlook House, 458 New Chester Road, Rock Ferry, Birkenhead, L42 2AE, UK, Fax +44 151 644 8550.

• International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), an association of governments interested in cotton which produces Cotton Review, quarterly Bulletin of Statistics, and a bimonthly technical newsletter, ICAC Recorder. 1629 K Street NW, Suit 702, Washington DC 20006, Fax +1 202 463 6950.

• International Textiles and Clothing Bureau is a grouping of 21 ACP countries which came together to work on the MFA phase-out.  Located in Geneva, Switzerland. Tel  +41 22 79 86 711, 79 87 342.

• National Organic Cotton Association Sustainable Cotton Project, 1312 T Street, Newman, California 95360, US.  Tel +1 209 862 0860/2541, Fax +1 209 862 0860.

• Natural Resources Institute (NRI) has conducted research on cotton pests and on IPM in developing countries. The Secretariat of the International IPM Working Group is located at NRI, Central Avenue, Chatham Maritime, Kent, ME24 4TB,; Tel +44 1634 88 3054, Fax 44 1634 88 0066.

[The resources and contacts appeared in Pesticides News No. 28, June 1995, pages 22-23]