Safe farming-safer food?

Patrick Holden, Director of the Soil Association, is a campaigner for improved sustainable agriculture in the UK.  He discussed with David Buffin his concern that the Food Standards Agency will fail to take sufficient account of the need to reform agricultural practice using the experience of a reconstructed Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (MAFF).

In general responses to the proposals by Prof James for the creation of a Food Standards Agency (FSA) have been favourable (see PN p14). You have some reservations however?
Virtually all responses welcome the FSA, and the momentum now seems largely unstoppable. The proposals within the James report to increase public representation and scrutiny on post farm gate policing of food and the maintenance of high standards in the food industry are long overdue. But the problem for the most eminent nutritionist in the country was that his task was to restructure MAFF when his expertise is restricted to food quality.

    The recommended structure does not make the connection between food quality and method of production. It is what the proposals leave out that concerns me, not what they include. In their present form they do not deal with the recent food scares which necessitated the creation of the FSA: bacterial contamination of food which includes BSE; problems with pesticides; genetic engineering; and declines in food quality.
    These problems all result from intensification of agriculture. None of them is post farm gate. The very best the Agency will do in its present form is clean up the damage which is inherent in the breakdown, whether it is the bacterial contamination or improving the post-slaughter process. I fear the proposed structure will throw out the baby with the bath water. To put these things right, you need a ministry with the expertise to do it.

The National Food Alliance (NFA) has described the proposals as a "modern, rational and progressive food policy"  and consumer groups have welcomed the  minority role of  'industry' on the food safety committees. Whatare your views?
The degree of emphasis given to the pre-farm gate issues should exceed the post-farm gate issues. This point has been missed by virtually every NGO responding to this document. I find this really worrying. A lesser role for industry is a healthy development in principle. But it depends what you mean by industry. For instance farmers are 'industry'!

How will the change affect organic farming?
In responding for the UK Register of Organic Farming Standards (UKROFS) Prof. Sir Colin Spedding pointed out that UKROFS is the only part of MAFF that has been addressing the problem of food safety for the last decade. UKROFS has also recommended ways to overcome these problems but was not consulted about the FSA. In rebuilding MAFF, components of the UKROFS committee could be usefully absorbed.

    In the organic movement the progress made during the last 10-20 years was brought about by people who were primary producers, and who often became involved in distribution. These are people whose knowledge was absolutely vital in developing organic standards.
    There is a balance to be struck between people who know the problems and people who are not technically expert but represent independent and consumer interests. As somebody who has farmed for 14 years, I know very well that without technical expertise it is quite impossible to write a prescription for an agricultural system which does not create food safety problems.

There has been an increase in organic farming in recent years, is there now an element of the food industry that reflects this commitment to environmental concerns?
Yes there is. In the organic farm industry, there are a small number of companies whose products are trusted by consumers, which become role models for 'processing with principles'. Food processors who are trusted by consumer/environmentalists share certain characteristics. They are virtually all exclusively organic. Most of the initiators were first involved with primary production, and then realised they needed to develop a market, and the only way to do that would be to set up companies.
    Suppose everybody agrees that intensive agriculture was wrong and something must be done to put British agriculture on a better track. Who will reconstruct our agricultural practices to ensure high quality, high safety standards, sustainable soil fertility, minimal damage to the environment? Where is that expertise going to come from under the new FSA? In Prof. James' model for the FSA, there are no 'lines of communication' that connect the old MAFF with the dominant FSA. Where are the architects of sustainable agriculture in the great James mission?

So the FSA has a missing link which does not allow it to couple with sustainable agriculture?
Yes. The prime minister, Tony Blair, was correct to appoint  Prof. James, but he should have gone to someone else who understood the agricultural side of the equation and said "between the two of you come up with proposals that not only look after consumers interests but also sort out the production problems."
    I think the FSA is radical enough, but it has a structural flaw, we all see MAFF as so irretrievably bad, that we cannot see a way in which it can be re-built.

So you think shifting pesticides safety from MAFF to the Department of Health is a good idea?
The idea of making a link between the effects of intensive farming on human health is good. The connection is there in the same way that agriculture has an effect on the environment.
    With the old order, consumers said "we want cheap food," and farmers saw consumers as an irritant standing in the way of the cosy relationship they had with MAFF. This was the era when MAFF prevailed and farmers got it all their own way. Ironically producers are now cast as evil by Prof. James and the consumer this time has the upper hand. The producers had their way and now the consumer does-it is like going to war.
    I do not want to see the antagonism continue. I would rather see consumers understanding agriculture, recognising the linkages and integrating these interests in the new agency.

Therefore in addition to the FSA proposals, MAFF needs serious reform?
Absolutely. There should be a White Paper that recognises the many strengths of Prof. James' proposals. It should also develop a blueprint for sustainable agriculture in Britain to support the FSA. I would like to see an integrated Ministry of Sustainable Agriculture and Food Standards that builds the bridge between the FSA and the old MAFF.
    At one of his recent 'meet the people' sessions I asked Tony Blair if the government takes organic farming seriously. He said "the government is spending £4 billion on the consequences of BSE, and any form of agriculture that avoids further problems has got to be taken seriously."
    The cost of unsustainable farming is such that it is worth spending large amounts avoiding those problems in the future. You will not achieve this simply through independent food scientists, as glorified food police.

What do you understand 'food safety' and 'food quality' to mean in relation to sustainable farming?
In the long run the health of the population will be directly affected by the quality of the way we husband and nurture the soil. This can only come from sustainable management practices recognising the principles of avoiding pests and diseases through, for example, rotational practices. Sustainable agriculture is based on the principle of healthy plants. Plants remain healthy if you feed and husband them in the right way. So the idea that we can create a healthy population simply by tuning the fat and sugar intake does not recognise that the issues are much more subtle than that.

Who could do the same as Prof. James in relation to sustainable agriculture?
I would like to suggest a university in the UK that specialises in sustainable agriculture and has a department sufficiently developed to offer relevant advice. The nearest thing we have is Nick Lampkin at the University of Aberystwyth. There are a number of professorships in Germany universities now that specialise in sustainable agriculture, but we do not have one yet.

Could you suggest factors that  incorporate the sustainable agriculture scenario in the FSA.
Current methods of agriculture are unsustainable because we have developed input-dependent agriculture. We have abandoned rotational practices and husbandry and have substituted them with chemical fertilisers and pesticides, resulting in a breakdown in health. We grow crops continuously-relying on monocultures-that is the basis of all modern agriculture. As a result, plants develop  thin cell walls and have an increased proneness to fungal and pest attack. Also, intensive fertiliser use allows a few arable weeds to thrive, leading to greater herbicide use.
    Intensive livestock production leads to the increasing use of antibiotics. Intensive sheep production leads to the use of anthelmintics (veterinary drugs) leading to the worms becoming resistant.
    We have to move away from unsustainable practices and re-introduce rotational farming which builds fertility through the use of legumes, rather than through imported nitrogen fertilisers.
    We have to re-introduce cultural and husbandry techniques for the control of weeds. For example, you do not get blackgrass in cereals when you rotate crops. This is what I call a sustainable alternative-I try to avoid the word 'organic', which brings out prejudice and  creates a polarity that I want to move away from. We want to discuss the issues not the terms.

Is there a role for genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in sustainable agriculture?
Sustainable agriculture does not need genetic engineering because there are too many risks. We support the labelling of 'GMO food', but it is only a staging point  to rid sustainable agriculture of GMOs. Soya is a perfect example. You cannot stop genetically engineered soya from mixing with non-affected soya (despite the efforts of the organic movement).
    The genetic engineering approach is hostile to biodiversity and to the kind of sustainable techniques that we need to promote.

Will the measures you are proposing be cost effective?
In the long run without question! The Danes are currently discussing banning the use of pesticides (see page 9). If you did this you could abandon the Pesticides Safety Directorate-you would not need them any more. That element of cost associated with the PSD goes.

Should the factors you have outlined have specific reduction targets?
Yes, absolutely. We are not going to reconstruct agriculture overnight-it is going take years if not decades to achieve it. In some cases we have changed the structure so much, especially in the all arable area-we have taken all the hedges out, and there are no stock buildings left.
    We should set targets and have a carrot and stick approach.
    The 'stick' includes the regulatory floor which outlaws the worst practices, including the use of some pesticides and other inputs.
    We should apply the polluter pays principle to ensure those who are damaging the water environment pay at source, rather than relying on the water companies to clean up afterwards.
    The 'carrots' should include capital grants for re-construction work and support payments for farmers who adopt management prescriptions that deliver the outcomes recommended by the FSA proposals.

In the US they have a target for IPM, do you think that is a good idea?
I think IPM is a staging post on the route to the elimination of pesticides in agriculture. As long as you are using artificial fertilisers you will need to use pesticides. If you are going  to use pesticides you should have the responsibility to use them sensibly. In my view that is the bottom line. I do not think there is anything remotely radical about IPM-it is more or less the status quo. If you 'boil down' all the elements of IPM, what they really say is "if you do use them then use them safely and don't use more than you really need to."

How do you get farmers to change their practices, won't they see the FSA as highly critical, will groups like LEAF help?
I think the IPM schemes whether they be LEAF or the NFU protocols are just 'good practice', a safety floor through which no farmers should go. The problem is you start to glorify them and say they can be used to achieve food safety environmental protection which is going to deliver everything all at once. I do not believe you can have a twin track approach with a food factory on the one hand, and the nature reserve on the other-it will not address the problems. The LEAF/IPM type approaches cannot solve those problems just by 'turning the volume control down.' It is very good that farmers are working together looking at how they can improve,  but let's not delude ourselves about how far they are moving.

So how do you ensure farmers make the required fundamental changes?
At present MAFF policy is not clear in terms of the direction it wants farmers to go. There are agri-environment signals which are merely 'greening the fringes'. MAFF still provides intensive subsidies such as, arable area payments and set aside.
    The government, like other EU member states, has had the opportunity to do more, particularly through the organic aid scheme, but the UK spends the lowest amount on this in the EU. Also consumer and environmental NGOs have not given clear signals to government, and as a result it has not given clear policy directions.

Do you think people in MAFF will be able to deliver sustainable agriculture policies?
Agriculture policy since the war has been mis-directed. Some of those responsible will have to retire, but there are many in MAFF who are reconcilable. Dare I say it, there is a growing number of civil servants some who are in line with the spirit of what we at the Soil Association are discussing.
    With strong leadership from the ministers there is every chance that farming will become more sustainable.
    Most of the Agri-Environment Schemes have been funded by the UK treasury, not the EU. Gordon Brown (the finance minister) is busy spending £4 billion cleaning up after BSE, and will find it difficult to fund more Agri-Environment Schemes, one of which is the organic aid scheme.

Will the CAP reforms be an obstacle to sustainable agriculture?
The problem is the UK is negotiating for more environmentally friendly agriculture, whereas Europe is more interested in keeping people on the land. What France and Germany are asking for is modulation (targeting the aid on the smaller holdings) MAFF does not like that because our average holding size is so large.
    CAP has been so bad, that any change will be an improvement. The question is how radical will the reforms be.

Patrick Holden is Director of the Soil Association, Bristol House, 40 - 56 Victoria Street, Bristol BS1 6BY, UK, Tel, 0117 929 0661, Fax 0117 925 2504, Email info@soilassociation.org, http://www.soilassociation.org

[This article first appeared in Pesticides News No. 37, September 1997, pages 10-11]