German organic cotton initiative

PAN Germany’s Cotton Consumption Conversion Initiative aims to encourage institutions to convert to using organic cotton textiles. The first stakeholder workshop discussed how to increase organic cotton usage.

Conventional cotton is a crop associated with many social, economic and environmental problems. A series of presentations at the workshop outlined the challenges posed by conventional cotton production, and the benefits of organic production. 
    In Benin, for example, where organic cotton projects have been running since 1996, much research has gone into the problems resulting from pesticide use, such as poisonings and fatalities (see PN 47 p12). Benin’s conventional agriculture is facing falling yields, declining soil fertility and increased climate perturbation. Organic methods have led to many beneficial impacts, including fewer health problems, increased revenues for women and men farmers, regeneration of soils and better gross profit margins. 
    Labour standards are poor in cotton chains. There is a need for awareness raising around the problems of increasing globalisation and the driving down of costs through competition, to increase demand among consumers for fairer products. These projects hope to mirror the successes of the UK Ethical Trade Initiative and the Dutch Clean Clothes Campaign, both of which encourage companies to play a ‘gatekeeper’ role. By taking on this responsibility, companies set and maintain higher standards throughout the supply chain and improve labour wages and conditions. Various campaigns contrast low wages paid by the outsourced suppliers with expensive brands bought by European consumers.
    Participants talked about how to increase organic cotton use, for example in hotels, restaurants, institutional washing facilities, workwear, and other activities in the public eye. Activities being undertaken by participants include workshops in schools, and designing and producing organic cotton tee-shirts for universities. Agenda 21 initiatives at local government level are trying to integrate the use of organic cotton into planning. Consumers must be closely targeted; producers also have to be involved in the process, and supported in converting to organic production. Finally, supply and demand need to be better understood. (SF)

Contact: Alexandra Baier, PAN Germany, Nernstweg 32, 22765 Hamburg, Tel: 49 (0)40 39 91 910 25, alexandra.baier@pan-germany.org

[This article first appeared in Pesticides News No. 54, December 2001, page 18]