More interest in US organic cotton

A recent analysis by the Organic Trade Association (OTA) of North America has found that, while more and more companies are using organic cotton, farmers in the region need a more predictable market before production can steadily expand. Sandra Marquardt reports on an encouraging trend in the US(1), but points out the need for stability. 

Currently the volume of certified organic cotton fibre traded is estimated to be about 6,000 tonnes a year – only 0.03 % of cotton production worldwide(2). Grown in 10 to 15 countries, it is most widely produced in Turkey (29% of estimated production), and in the US (27%), where a government policy on organic production has been constructive(3).
    The number of large US and Canadian companies expanding their use of organic cotton has made 2002 a banner year. Some have added it to their product lines, while others have made commitments to convert their use of conventional to organic cotton in the near future. Historically the organic fibre industry has been the arena of entrepreneurs and other small businesses, which are continuing to thrive. Interest from larger scale companies is a particularly exciting development:

• Cutter and Buck initiated its programme to incorporate 10-15% of organic cotton into two of its biggest styles of men’s shirts and have a 50% blend organic-conventional blend in a third style. The company is considering expanding its current product lines with new options and styles. 
• Early Winters converted its signature ‘Smith Rock’ line to 100% organic cotton. In 2000, its parent company, Norm Thompson Outfitters Inc., announced that all divisions under its umbrella would convert to organic cotton by spring 2006.
• GAIAM launched its ‘Home’ line of 100% organic sheets, pyjamas and blankets, complementing its organic cotton yoga wear line in place since 2000.
• After a successful introduction of organic cotton long johns in autumn 2002, Hanna Andersson is looking at ways to expand this offering over the next several years.
• Maggie’s Organics/Clean Clothes Inc. began servicing conventional grocery stores with its line of accessories made with organic fibres. They also formed a partnership with a screenprinter using only PVC-free, water-based inks, and began a container program for T-shirts, all made with domestic organically grown cotton.
• Mountain Equipment Coop (MEC) in Canada converted its childrenswear line to organic cotton, making its entire MEC-labelled clothing line 100% organic cotton.
• Nike released its new 100% organic cotton women’s ‘Nike Organics’ line in autumn 2002, complementing its programme to blend 5% organic cotton with conventional cotton programme. 
• The Timberland Company initiated a plan to integrate organic cotton into their apparel line. From spring 2003 to spring 2006, the company plans to offer both 100% and blended products to consumers, and already uses 100% organic cotton for its promotional T-shirts. 

In addition, an increasing number of manufacturers are using organic cotton to make home products such as sheets, bedding and towels. Membership of OTA’s Fiber Council has increased, and manufacturers and retail companies attended a training session on integrating organic cotton into product lines offered by OTA in May 2002 at its All Things Organic ™ Conference and Trade Show. Many will be attending this years conference from 14-17 May 2003, in Austin, Texas(4).
    To this point, market instability for organic cotton, and other factors, has been reflected in the variable quantities grown. Respondents to an OTA survey listed the following reasons for the decreased number of organic cotton acres planted in 2002: rented land in both California and Arizona was taken back by the owners, forcing discontinuation of organic cotton production on that land; Kansas lost its crop to rain; Tennessee lost its acreage to crop failure; and Texas lost some acreage to organic crop rotation requirements, and the rest to one farmer’s decision to cut back on organic cotton acreage. Farmers in Tennessee and Kansas chose to grow other crops in 2002.
    In a further development, the OTA intends to finalise fibre processing standards5 by this autumn, for the US Department of Agriculture to use as the basis of federal processing standards.

References
1 Sandra Marquardt, OTA, Greenfield, MA, Beltwide Presentation, 9 January 2003.
2. The International market for organic cotton and eco-textiles, PAN UK, August 2002.
3. US Department of Agriculture, Policy Statement on National Organic Program Scope, 2 May, 2002, www.ams.usda.gov/nop/nopscopepolicy.htm
4. www.atoexpo.com
5. OTA, North American Draft Organic Fiber Standards: post harvest processing, record keeping, and labelling, 2002.

Sandra Marquardt works for the Organic Trade Association which is a membership-based business association representing the organic industry in North America. smarquardt@ota.com, www.ota.com

[This article first appeared in Pesticides News No. 59, March 2003, page 18]